Looking For Paradise In Brazil?
General de Gaulle once referred to Brazil famously
, as the country of the future and the refrain went and always will be. These days Brazil feels very much the country of the present as well as the future; the place to be; a huge country just waiting for its true beauty to be discovered by independent travellers, not just the age-old clichs of carnival, football, sun, sand, sea and sex.I first arrived in Brazil in 1979 and a great deal has changed since then, not least in the options of where to stay and the standards of accommodation in general. Back then hotels were really all there was on offer. These days there are a myriad of hostels for backpackers, city apart-hotels with self-catering facilities, beach resorts offering an all-in approach, spas, and an ever increasing number of amazingly beautiful pousadas.
The word pousada literally just means a place to stay and there are tens of thousands of them all over the country, mostly outside the larger cities, and many in fabulous locations way off the beaten track, only accessible by dirt roads. Unlike pousadas in Portugal which are more akin to the Spanish parador, pousadas in Brazil can be anything from B&Bs, guesthouses, inns and eco- lodges to super exclusive boutique hotels.
In comfort terms they range from fairly basic to the seriously luxurious and in price from relatively cheap to the sky is the limit. What makes a pousada a pousada is more than anything a unique feel, charm and style the complete opposite of what you might expect in the average hotel or resort.
Before you pack your bags though, there are three important things to note.
Firstly, all pousadas put their prices up considerably in high season (usually December 15th until after carnival) and for all holiday weekend packages. Where the holiday weekend falls into high season, like Christmas, New Year and Carnival, you can expect both shortage of availability and a second price hike!
Tip 1: Check holidays before you start planning your trip, come off- season if you can and book direct with the pousada to get the best deal
Secondly, pousadas, just like hotels, vary wildly in terms of quality and service. Many pousadas these days have good websites but many also fail to deliver what they promise.
Tip 2: Always check out previous guests comments and if possible speak to someone who has actually been there. It can end up saving you both time and money..
Thirdly, Brazil is a huge country and even for seasoned travellers it is very easy to underestimate how long it takes and how much it costs to get from one place to another. Intercity buses are excellent and local buses are generally good, but they dont always go where you want to go or at a time you might want to go. Many of the best pousadas are way off the beaten track- which happens to be sand or mud when you are there! Be warned if driving, particularly in the rain.
Tip 3: If you have only got a 2-week break, it is much better to stick to one or two areas rather than attempt more and spend the whole time on the road. Dont even think of doing Rio, Iguassu falls, Salvador, Pantanal and the Amazon on the same trip unless you have at least 2 months!
I have travelled the length and breadth of Brazil and visited over 200 pousadas throughout the country making every mistake in the book. Admittedly I had lots of fun making those mistakes, but these tips should put you in good stead to enjoy the paradise Brazil has to offer.
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