Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital
Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital
Launching Jean Dunand Watches, a continual program of Unique Timepieces, required something more than a mere aesthetic fillip. The watch had to be fresh, original, groundbreaking. At a time when watch connoisseurs are spoiled for choice, a watch commemorating the great Art Deco artist and craftsman had to be heart-stoppingly beautiful and daring.
The Tourbillon Orbital, is the first of Jean Dunand Watch and an achievement never before seen in watchmaking. It features a one-minute flying tourbillon that orbits the dial once every hour, on a revolving movement. The watch also introduces a novel power-reserve indicator in the case-band, provides a full view of the movement and displays the phases of the moon on the case-back.
Reinstating the tourbillon as a precision device
With every ambitious watchmaker jumping on the tourbillon "band-wagon", it is not surprising that some enthusiasts are voicing a back lash. Strange though this may seem, the sheer profusion of lesser tourbillons has rendered the complication almost "common". Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret, however have too much respect for the concept to allow it to be devalued.
To this end, they have created the IO200 movement, named after Jupiter's moon. Invented and constructed by Claret, it defies the opinion of his fellow watchmakers who insisted that an orbiting tourbillon was impossible to make. It returns the tourbillon to its original role as the preeminent precision complication. In fact, timing tests are said to prove that the combined rotation of the tourbillon and the movement significantly improves the rate stability of the watch.
How to wind and set a rotating watch movement
Christophe Claret devoted two years to solving the mechanical challenge of winding and setting a rotating movement with a mainspring barrel that never stays in one place. The conventional crown through the caseband was obviously impossible. However, winding and setting the movement vertically through its central axis is a new solution in watchmaking which conveniently solves this problem.
A folding key set into the case-back replaces the crown. Lifting the D-ring of the key engages a central wheel on ball bearings that turns the ratchet-wheel to wind the barrel-spring. Pulling out the key engages the hours and minutes-hands in order to set them in any direction. Positioned against the fixed chapter-ring, the minutes-hand turns with the rotating dial.
Windows to the heart of the movement
Inescapably, the winding key and the moon-phase display on the back of the watch prevent a conventional view of the rotating movement through a sapphire-crystal case-back.
The absence of the usual crown at 3 o'clock allowed Jean Dunand's case-makers to provide a fascinating lateral view of the revolving mechanisms by cutting two windows in the case-band.
A never seen before power-reserve indicator
These side windows opened the opportunity for another first in watchmaking - an entirely original way of indicating the power reserve. The window at 3 o'clock displays a vertical needle that moves between F (full) and E (empty). Precisely in the manner of fuel gauges in vintage cars. The secret of indicating the power-reserve in one place from a constantly moving barrel is patented.
Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital Technical specifications
Model Jean-Dunand Tourbillon Orbital
Movement Calibre IO200, manually wound rotating movement with off-center flying tourbillon, exclusive watchmaking ball-bearing system with triple rotation within one single block, moon-phase display in the back and power-reserve indicator on the side. Vertical winding and setting through the center of the movement from the back.
Dimensions 33mm x 10.4mm
Bearings 4 ball-bearing races, 14 jewel bearings
Parts 215
Tourbillon
- One-minute flying tourbillon (one-hour movement rotation)
- Balance with adjusting screws on a flat spring
- Balance frequency of 21'600 a/h
- Central ball-bearing system.
Indications
- Hours and minutes
- Seconds on the tourbillon
- Power reserve indicator located in the caseband (linear reading system with gauge)
- Moon phases located in the caseback at 9 o'clock
Power-reserve Approx. 110 hours
Case
- 18k rose gold, white gold or platinum with matching buckle.
- Two windows in the caseband.
- Fir-tree engine-turned back.
Dimensions 45mm x 15.30mm
Glass
- Non-reflecting domed sapphire crystal.
- Two domed sapphire crystals in the caseband, one domed sapphire crystal in the caseback.
Water-resistance 3 ATM (30 meters)
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