Who Has Climbed All 14 8000m Peaks Without Oxygen?
Without supplementary oxygen, every breath at 8,000 meters is a negotiation. Climbers who skip the bottle accept slower movement, more hypoxic stress and less room for delay. Doing that on all fourteen mountains is a whole different level of commitment.
The page I researched is careful on this topic. It says no oxygen status should always be paired with the summit verification standard, since a historical no oxygen completion and a strict true summit no oxygen completion aren’t automatically the same.
### The Historical First
Reinhold Messner completed all 14 without supplementary oxygen by 1986. That established the foundational no oxygen collection record. The roster marks him as no oxygen on all 14, and he was the first overall.
Others on the roster with that classification include Erhard Loretan, Juanito Oiarzabal, Alberto Iñurrategi, Ed Viesturs, Silvio Mondinelli, Iván Vallejo and Denis Urubko. Plenty of names, and each one earned it the hard way.
### Legacy Women’s First
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s K2 finish in August 2011 made her the first woman in the legacy record to complete all 14 without oxygen. Guinness’ archived record credits her with it.
The page notes modern true summit rules are separate. So her record sits in the legacy category, and isn’t wiped away by the newer system. It’s a good example of keeping two valid records side by side.
### Purja’s Strict Speed Record
Guinness records Nirmal Purja’s true summit and no oxygen cycle from [how many people have climbed all 14 8000m peaks](https://globalsummitguide.com/climbers-all-14-eight-thousanders-list/) Kangchenjunga on May 7, 2022 to Shishapangma on October 4, 2024, at 2 years 150 days. That’s the fastest strict no oxygen cycle on file.
The roster notes his 2019 project used oxygen, so the 2024 cycle is a separate, strict record. The page says his death in 2026 doesn’t change these records, which remain part of the chronology.
### He Jing’s Strict Milestone
He Jing returned to Manaslu and reached its verified true summit in September 2025. 8000ers.com records that correction as completing all 14 true summits without supplementary oxygen. Seven Summit Treks describes it as the first verified women’s completion of that category.
It’s easy to miss how rare that is. In the strict table of 39 finishers, no oxygen completions are only a small subset, which makes her milestone stand out even more.
### Other Distinctions
Ed Viesturs is the first strict true summit finisher and did it without supplementary oxygen. Kim Chang ho is listed as a former fastest no oxygen completion in 2013. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet completed together in 2017 without oxygen.
Edurne Pasaban used oxygen on Everest only, and Jerzy Kukuczka used oxygen on Everest as well. That’s why they don’t appear in the no oxygen category, even though both finished all 14.
### Reading the Table
If you want to see [who has climbed all 14 8000m peaks](https://globalsummitguide.com/climbers-all-14-eight-thousanders-list/) without oxygen, the roster has a filter for oxygen classification. You can choose “No O2” and see the whole group at once.
Just remember the page’s note: the oxygen wording follows the reviewed historical roster and isn’t a substitute for the stricter classification used by 8000ers.com and Guinness. Two lists, two standards, same careful reading.
### Why It Matters
No oxygen climbing is about style and risk. It changes recovery margins, speed and the margin for error. The page links the topic to its difficulty ranking, which notes that removing oxygen raises hypoxic stress, especially on the highest mountains.
It’s also why records get labeled carefully. A person who used oxygen on one mountain isn’t less of a climber, but their record belongs in a different box. That’s fair to everyone.
### Conclusion
Messner started it, Kaltenbrunner and Purja extended it, and He Jing added a strict milestone. Check the oxygen label and the verification standard each time. That’s the cleanest answer to who has climbed all 14 8000m peaks without oxygen, and to how many people have climbed all 14 8000m peaks overall.
### FAQs
Who was first to climb all 14 without oxygen?
Reinhold Messner, by 1986.
Who was the first woman in the legacy no oxygen record?
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, finishing on K2 in August 2011.
Who was the first woman to complete all 14 true summits without oxygen?
He Jing, after her Manaslu correction in September 2025.
What is the fastest strict no oxygen record?
Nirmal Purja’s 2 years 150 days.
2026-10-15 14:21
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