Stripping, Recaulking, And Restoring Your Shower
Sometimes when your home begins to age, the bathroom fixtures are the first thing to go
. Our showers often reflect the wear and tear that homes naturally go through-they deserve some extra care!Sometimes all they need is a little bit of caulking and retiling. Caulk works because it is both a strong glue and a flexible sealant, characteristics necessary to seal a joint between dissimilar materials or a joint that has movement.
In the damp environment of a tub or shower, the right caulk keeps the water where it belongs and protects your home! The best way to keep your caulk in good shape is to apply it properly in the first place.
Therefore, the first step in replacing caulk is getting all the old caulk off. Though you can do a patch job that will last for a brief period of time, a complete job gives the long lasting results.
By pre-cleaning the area with a good combination bathroom surface cleaner /soap scum remover before removing the old sealer, you will introduce less moisture around the tiles than you would if you cleaned afterwards. After the old stuff is off, the final cleaning will be done with an alcohol solvent.
Get a sharp knife and try to cut it. If it is very rubbery and somewhat soft, it is most likely a pure silicone seal. If it seems to be very hard, then it is probably a water-based latex or PVA material.
Be very careful to keep the razor angled low, so that you do not scratch the tub or shower pan, especially if it is a plastic or fiberglass. A utility knife can also be used to cut it out from between the tiles and the tub if the razor cannot quite get it out, especially in deeper pockets and corners.
Wipe the joint down with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry for a few minutes. The alcohol does a good job of cleaning off any remaining soap scum and grease that may have crept under loose sealant, or anything may have missed before.
Use a vacuum to suck out any bits of pieces of leftover that may be lurking under the edge of the tile. Many plumbers feel that a tub should be filled with water prior to the caulking process.
The principle is that the weight of the water will settle tub slightly downward or, in the case of plastic enclosures, expand it slightly outward. Thus, the seal will last longer because it will never be stretched when you enter the tub.
It's a sad truth that no matter what pains you go through to prep the enclosure, carefully pick the proper caulk, terminate the mildew, all anyone is going to notice is your artistic application. It is more of an art than a craft, a mixture of finesse and experience.
Do not cut too large an opening in the end of the tube. The larger the opening, the more likely you are to overcaulk the joint.
The trick to doing it neatly lies in not applying too much caulk to the joint. When you smooth the joint, any excess tends to slop all over the place.
It is not the end of the world, just makes getting a neat job all the more difficult. You can always add a little more in any spots that are lacking.
Apply a bead, no more than a quarter inch wide, right into one of the joints. Use a finger, moisten it with the damp sponge, and glide it along the joint, pressing the sealer evenly into the joint .
If you have applied the right amount, the gap between the end of your finger and the joint will smooth it to a neat, even appearance. As you finish a section, if there are any spots that seem to have too little, add a little and smooth it in with a finger.
Work quickly, because you only have a couple of minutes before it begins to "skin" over. Plan on doing the whole job at once.
If you stop mid-job, the start-stop seam may not adhere well-it can become an entry point for water and mildew growth. Let it dry at least overnight.
Now you can have a clean, finished looking bath or shower that you deserve! Now...go take a shower!
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