Mallorca Travel: Exploring Eastern Mallorca: Arta, Capdepera and Cala Rajada
On my last full day in Mallorca my plan was to explore the eastern part of the island
. I had spent the vast majority of my time in the north of Mallorca, where the dramatic Serra de Tramuntana mountain range had held an almost magical spell on me. Today my destinations were on the eastern part of the island.Around 10 am I left Port d'Alcudia and started driving south. The first big attraction along my route was the Parc Natural de s'Albufera, a large protected wetland that features many kilometers of walkways that allow visitors to view the fauna and flora of this nature area. More than 200 species of wild birds can be admired up close at this conservation area. Close by is the town of C'an Picafort, a tourist town located in the centre of the Bay of Alcudia which is particularly popular with tourists from Germany. From here the road turned inland through flattish countryside with occasional rolling hills.
My first stop was at the hilltop town of Arta whose name derives from the Arabic word for "garden". I drove through the narrow streets of the town to a parking lot below the fortification, parked my car and hiked up to the top of the hill which is crowned by the impressive Sanctuary of Sant Salvador.
The church dates from the 1300s and draws visitors from all across Mallorca. The fortification walls were added in the 16h century to protect the church against invading pirates. The view from the top of the mountain across the wide expansive valley is fabulous and towards the south side you can survey the town of Arta which sprawls at the foot of the hill.
A series of steps down from the mountain, actually a Way of the Cross, is the town's parish church which dates back to 1573. Arta is not a primary tourist destination, but definitely worth a stop on a tour of the island. From here I continued my drive eastwards on Highway C712 to the seafront town of Cala Rajada, the main coastal development on this part of the island.
I arrived in Son Moll, a part of Cala Rajada that offers a beautiful cove with a sandy beach that is enveloped by turquoise and deep blue waters. Most of the tourists in this town hail from Germany, and I was watching a crowd of German tourists in a public dance lesson right next to the beach. Cala Rajada used to be a fishing village until the onset of mass tourism in the 1960s.
The entire waterfront is accessible via a paved walkway that is lined by a series of cafes and restaurants with outdoor patios. It was now getting close to noon time and my stomach was starting to growl. One restaurant caught my attention with a sign up front saying "Hier nix Kotelett & Sauerkraut, hier kocht Pedro". (Translation: "No pork chops and sauerkraut here, Pedro is cooking here."). I had to laugh out loud at this obviously humorous reference to the many restaurants that cater specifically to German taste buds.
I found a nice little pizzeria and plunked myself down on the outdoor patio with a perfect view of the harbour of Cala Rajada. Instead of fishing boats, the port today is home to expensive yachts and cruisers. I enjoyed the sun as I savoured my tomato and goat cheese pizza. As I took in the scenic view of Cala Rajada I thought to myself that it does not get much better than this.
When I was finished with lunch I asked the owner (who also hailed from Germany) about the big villa on the hill opposite harbour. He explained that the entire hill and the villa are owned by the wealthy March family, owners of the Banca March, a financial institution founded in 1926 by Juan March who at one point was the 7th richest man in the world. The family often receives important guests, and once a year King Juan Carlos from Spain arrives here for a summer vacation, resulting in extensive security measures that block off the port of Cala Rajada.
I also asked the restaurant owner about bicycle rentals in town and he recommended a store in town. So I started walking towards the harbour and inland to the intended rental shop, but it was all locked up. I could not believe that on a Saturday afternoon at 1 pm the shop would be closed, but that's all part and parcel of Spain's siesta tradition.
So I slowly strolled back to my vehicle to drive to the northern part of town that was supposed to hold another bicycle rental place. At the north end of town I ended up at Cala Argulla, a beach in a deep cove that was absolutely packed with people. I got a little idea what these beaches might look like in July and August when huge crowds of tourists descend on these beaches. It must be absolute mayhem, I thought. Finally on my way back from the beach I found the second bike rental place, but no luck here either, it was closed as well. Unfortunately I had to give up my dream of cycling on the island of Mallorca.
In the mid-afternoon I decided to start my drive back and left Cala Rajada, but decided to make an inland stop in the town of Capdepera. I parked my vehicle in town and started walking up the hill to the mountain fortress which dates back to the 14th century. King James II (Jaume II) had ordered the construction of this structure to protect the village among other things from pirate attacks.
After paying the modest admission fee I explored the castle's grounds which include a museum that demonstrates locally weaved products. The highest point of the castle is occupied by the Gothic church Nuestra Senyora d'Esperana. Next to the church I walked up a series of steps onto the fortification walls which offer excellent views out into the countryside.
I started walking about 2.5 metres up above the ground with no protective railing but started to feel a little queezy, so I decided to get back down from the fortress walls and walk a little more securely on the ground. The early medieval Castell de Capdepera was definitely worth a visit.
One final stop on my back to Port d'Alcudia was Colonia de Sant Pere, a fishing village on the southern side of the Bay of Alcudia. I parked my car and walked to the waterfront promenade which is surrounded by a series of restaurants and cafes. From here I had an absolutely perfect view of the entire ridge of the Serra de Tramuntana, one of the most scenic vistas of this entire imposing mountain range. I sat down for a drink and just took in one of my last scenic moments during my stay on the gorgeous island of Mallorca that was coming to a rapid end.
With a slight feeling of melancholy I left Colonia de Sant Pere to get back to my hotel to pack my luggage and get ready for my early morning departure tomorrow. I was thinking back over my last 10 days in Mallorca and how this small Mediterranean island had impressed me with its amazing combination of history, culture and scenic beauty. I will definitely remember this trip for a long time to come
Mallorca Travel: Exploring Eastern Mallorca: Arta, Capdepera and Cala Rajada
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