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Read this for a description of the electrical system in an RV
. We present this article in two parts. Tips given here help you avoid dead batteries and ensure that you will always have power when you want it. Many of the systems in an RV interact and one system can affect the performance of another. The information below is based on a dual battery system, where one battery is used for engine start and the other is used for coach accessories. Many more elaborate systems are available, but let's keep it simply for now. Proper maintenance of your RV electrical will help make your travel adventures more enjoyable.Let's look at the Battery Systems which supply DC electrical power.
Most RV's contain a minimum of two batteries. Each is dedicated to a purpose. It is important from the outset that you understand the differences between these batteries and do not interchange them. Just like your car, your RV has a battery used to start the engine. To assure that the engine will start quickly under all conditions, use only a premium automotive battery here that is rated at 800 to 1000 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).
The lights and fans for the coach requires an entirely different type of battery. This battery does not need to give a burst of energy, but rather must be designed to give its power in smaller quantities over a longer period of time. It must be able to be discharged and charged over its life many times. Commonly called a deep cycle battery, it is usually rated in Reserve Capacity or Ampere Hours (AH). Each person has different needs in power consumption and you must gear your battery to work efficiently with your needs. If you only go out in the wilderness occasionally (dry camp), then a coach battery with a 50 AH rating will work fine for your needs. However, you may stay out for extended periods and require several hundred AH's to get by. This may mean you will need more than one battery connected in parallel to accomplish this. Weigh these considerations carefully before making your battery purchase.
Understanding how your two batteries are charged will help you avoid an engine that won't start or darkness when you want light. Let's talk about recharging the battery system while you're traveling. An important point is that the batteries must be isolated from one another. If you decide to connect the two batteries together without some way of isolating them, you must use large battery cable or you may overheat the wiring when the engine starter tries to pull current from the coach battery during starting. You also run the danger of running both batteries too low to start the engine while you are parked. This could be a serious problem if you are dry camping miles from no where. Some RV's have a dual battery switch that allows you to connect the batteries together. Don't leave this switch in the dual position, unless you are sure it is control by the ignition switch! The better of these systems use a time delay to allow the engine battery charge to stabilize before closing the circuit to the coach battery via a solenoid. The best systems use a Dual Battery Isolator to solve this problem. The isolator allows each battery to be charged by the engine alternator, but does not allow a drain from one battery to the other. This is important if you are dry camping. Some RV's will also have a solenoid with a momentary switch in the event that you need to start your generator on a low RV battery or boast your engine battery during starting. I would only rely on this in emergencies, thus avoiding current surges between the two batteries, one of which may be fully charged and the other low. If possible, it is better to start your engine and let the alternator charge the system a little first. It is also a good idea to have a circuit breaker installed in the circuit between the isolator and the RV battery to avoid overworking the alternator and wiring. Now you understand how the engine alternator keeps both batteries maintained, but what happens when you stop driving and start camping? We will cover this in part two of this article.
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