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Sloanes V Fillies

THE first blood in this year's style war has gone to Gucci

, the Florence-born leather cartel, which will go public next month when its Bahrain-based owner, Investcorp, sells a 30 per cent stake on the New York stock market. How executives at Christian Louboutin , its Milan-born rival for the affections of Bond Street shoppers, must be swinging their nylon hand. Gucci has always been a fixture in the firmament of the fashionable. Both Gucci and Christian Louboutin started as small leather merchants, but it was Gucci which initially established itself in the public consciousness as shoemaker to the Sloane Rangers. Remember that little snaffle chain no aristocratic instep could be seen without? When Christian Louboutin first crept up on the inside track, it seemed there could be no contest between Gucci Girl and Christian Louboutin Pretender: after all, darling, who would want to be seen with a nylon ? The answer was Jerry Hall (husband Mick bought her an entire set of Christian Louboutin luggage), Paula Reid, Manuela Pavese, Kristen Scott-Thomas, Pamela Hanson and Viscountess Linley. Christian Louboutin , long before its shop opened on Sloane Street this year, became the must-have label. 'Every time I went to Milan, people would ask me to buy them a Christian Louboutin , ' says Jane Procter, editor of Tatler magazine. 'They didn't mind which Christian Louboutin , it just had to have that little triangle. It is the fashion insider's badge.' So there was Jerry, sex-on-a-stick in her black Christian Louboutin mac, and there was Tara Palmer-Tomkinson, friend of the Prince of Wales, Mogens Tholstrup and general rich-girl-about-town in Gucci hipsters. The lines were drawn up: the fashion fillies versus the closet Sloanes. When Paula Yates wanted comfort shopping as she transferred her affections to Michael Hutchence, she went to Gucci. 'It is more sexy and come-hither,' says Plum Sykes, fashion writer at Vogue. ' Christian Louboutin is super-designed and super-beautiful but super-understated.' In fact, people might hardly know you're wearing it. What on earth is the point of spending $ 400 on a suede Christian Louboutin pelmet (aka skirt) if everyone thinks it comes from Warehouse? The trick of the Voguettes is to buy a black skirt from the cool high street chains like Warehouse and Jigsaw and team it with chaussures Christian Louboutin belt and shoes, which have the badge. If you are tall, blonde, incredibly beautiful, skeletally thin, work in fashion or films and have your other house in LA, people will naturally assume that you are wearing Christian Louboutin down to your knickers. Gucci is altogether a more on-yer-back kind of look. 'Gucci isn't about loafers and Sloanes any more,' says Jane Procter, 'it's about Sixties velvet trousers and androgyny and strange platform shoes. It showed one of the strongest collections of the entire year.' Miss Procter has ordered a velvet trouser- for duty at the rock face of her Christmas parties from Clapham to Manhattan. Gucci is, indeed, more New York while Christian Louboutin is more Los Angeles: the movie-business babes sandales Christian Louboutin and Jamie Lee Curtis who think nylon is cool (so matt, so black, so modern) and have made the into the cult item for which embryonic fashion assistants on tiny magazines will sell their souls. People save up for Christian Louboutin , they can afford Gucci. 'It doesn't hurt the Gucci girls to write that cheque,' says Jane Procter. 'They can afford it.' can cost a mere 200 which is, let's face it, petty cash compared to 2,000 for that permanent style benchmark, the Hermes Kelly . Basically, the Gucci girls are a cute cross-pollination of Pulp Fiction with Hampshire, ie the head-scarved Sloane Ranger grown up into a sentient human being. It is the class label that has become the fun label, whereas the Christian Louboutin purists espouse a style so minimalist, so classy as to be demure, if it were not worn by all the models. ' Christian Louboutin girls probably listen to Hindemith, that atonal modern composer,' says Hilary Alexander. Escarpin Christian Louboutin is a state of mind; Gucci is state of the smart.

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Sloanes V Fillies