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Engagement Ring Buying Guide

Once you have decided to buy a diamond engagement ring

, there are many factors to consider in choosing the perfect ring.

The first factor to consider is your budget. One common guideline is to multiply your monthly wages times two. However, if your budget won't allow that, determine what you feel you can comfortably afford. While a diamond ring is highly unlikely to lose value over time, the value of an engagement ring is in what is stands for, not its status as a financial "investment."

However, an engagement ring is a major purchase, and, as such, should be properly researched to assure that you are getting the best value for your money. This article will give you some basic information about shopping for an engagement ring.

Which Comes First, the Setting or the Stone?

Many stores sell the diamonds separate from the setting; you choose each and the store puts them together. It helps if you start with a general idea of the style you want. For example, if you want a traditional solitaire, then you only have to look at solitaire settings. If on the other hand, you want a heart-shaped diamond, the possible settings are more limited. Your jeweler may be able to help you focus your style on the setting that will suit you best.

There are six basic diamond shapes: marquise, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, oval, emerald-cut, and round brilliant.

The Five Cs of Diamonds

Traditionally, diamonds are evaluated in terms of the "Four Cs": Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat Weight.

The term "cut" is often confused with the diamond's shape. While different shapes are also referred to as "cuts" (such as "emerald cut"), for evaluation purposes, cut refers to the way facets are cut to give the diamond its "sparkle". Cuts are graded as Ideal, Premium, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

Almost all diamonds have one or more flaws affecting the clarity of the stone. There are two types of flaws: internal (inclusions) and surface (blemishes). Inclusions can include cracks, air bubbles, and other minerals within the stone, while blemishes may include chips, pits, or scratches. Grades for clarity are: F-flawless; IF-internally flawless; VVSI-very very slightly included; VSI-very slightly included; SI-slightly included, and I-included. Except for grade "I", flaws are NOT visible to the naked eye, and affect only the diamond's value, not its appearance.

Color is determined by the way the diamond is formed over time, and does not change. As a general rule, the preference is toward the lighter color. Most jewelers grade color by the GIA scale, which rates diamonds from "D" (colorless)to "Z" (slightly brown). Most experts advise choosing diamonds graded "G" through "I" as they are considered "near colorless" and no color is visible to the naked eye.

The fourth "C" is Carat Weight, and refers to the size of the diamond. Because of the way diamonds are formed, smaller ones are more common that larger. Thus price reflects BOTH size and rarity. If buying a ring with more than one stone, don't rely on "ctw" -carat total weight-to determine value, especially if there is a larger center stone. Ask for weight and quality of the center stone itself.

The fifth "C" is Certification. Diamond labs issue certificates which provide a detailed "fingerprint" of each unique diamond. The certificate includes the diamond's weight, measurements, details of cut, and evaluation of quality, including the stone's individual flaws and characteristics. A certificate does not appraise the stone's value. The two most widely recognized certifying laboratories are the GIA-Gemological Institute of America and the AGS-American Gem Society.

While a jeweler may give you his opinion regarding the grading of a particular stone, an AGS or GIA certificate is based on unbiased, standardized criteria.

Three Things to Watch Out For

1. Fractions of carats. FTC rules allow diamond weights to be rounded off as fractions, so a 1/4 carat stone can weigh as little as .69 carats. Ask for the exact weight, not a fraction.

2. Laser drilling. Over 30% of diamonds are laser drilled to remove flaws. This may cause weak spots in the stone. Thus laser drilled stones may be valued lower. A certificate will state that whether or not a stone has been laser drilled.

3. Fracture Filling. New technology has made it possible to repair surface fractures with a liquid crystal. This often makes the diamond appear of higher clarity than it really is. Again, a certificate will acknowledge such treatment.

By knowing what to look for, you'll be better able to compare rings as you search for the Perfect One.

by: Ross Gordon
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Engagement Ring Buying Guide