Who Will Design Kate Middleton's Wedding Dress?
Who Will Design Kate Middleton's Wedding Dress
?
Christmas came early for the fashion industry this year. Last week, Prince William proposed to his longtime girlfriend, Kate Middleton. Along with the accolades, came the dress speculation: Who will Kate choose? Will she pick a non-British designer? Will she go with a giant puff of a dress like the famous one worn by Princess Diana in 1981?
More likely, Middleton, a woman of understated elegance, will opt for something refined. Tabloid photos reveal a young woman with classic, even preppy taste, who doesn't wear garish makeup or too-short skirts. At the press conference announcing the news, Middleton wore a flattering slim-cut navy dress by London label ISSA; the blue dress matched the sapphire engagement ring, which was originally Princess Diana's engagement ring.
For a fashion house, there can be no event bigger than a royal wedding. Millions of people all over the world tuned in to watch Princess Diana descend from her carriage and enter church with her 25-foot antique lace and silk taffeta train. Her silk taffeta dress, by Welsh designer David Emanuel, was embroidered with sequins and over 10,000 pearls. When Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier III of Monaco, in 1956, she wore a dress designed by Helen Rose, MGM's star costume designer. Rose dressed Kelly in 'High Society,' Lauren Bacall in 'Designing Woman' and Elizabeth Taylor in 'Butterfield 8,' among others.
If this were an American wedding, we imagine the top list of contenders would be heavies like bridal queen Vera Wang, fresh off designing Chelsea Clinton's and Ivanka Trump's gowns, or Oscar de la Renta, who has dressed Madison Avenue princesses and actresses for decades. Throw Carolina Herrera and J. Mendel's Gilles Mendel in there and it could be a design fight to the finish. But we don't think Middleton is that much of a non-traditionalist to go with a non-British designer.
The question is: does Marchesa count?
The regal label, an Academy Award and red carpet standby, is headquartered in New York, sure. But designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are British. Few houses can balance drama and femininity like Marchesa. The Spring 2011 show, for example, featured hand-painted gowns, yards of tulle and laser-cut panels. People were actually moved to tears during the most recent presentation.
And look, this will probably never happenbut there are dark horses that could steal the spotlight.
Consider the house of Alexander McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton won accolades this past fall for her first collection after McQueen's death this past winter. Dresses were dramatic and bold, likely too bold for the next Queen. But the closing look of Sarah Burton's spring collection was a feathered gown that suggested both the strength of a warrior and the ethereal lightness of a goddess. Besides, we imagine there are vast reserves of affection for the McQueen name in the U.K., and not just among the fashion flock. A McQueen wedding gown could play towards sentimentality as well as patriotism (even if it is owned by Gucci Group.)
Britain is currently overflowing with design talent, which only complicates things. We know Vivienne Westwood could turn out a dreamy wedding dress, such as the featured gown in the 'Sex and the City' film. Don't discount John Galliano, who may be designing for Dior, but is British to his core. Then there's Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, two designers whose minimalist aesthetic may suit the future Queen's taste in non-flashy style. Of the newer generations, Matthew Williamson, Alice Temperley and Jenny Packham have dressed their share of stars in pretty gowns. And just for fun, let's toss in Victoria Beckham. No snickers, please. The ex-pop star has earned a fair share of admiration in the industry for her structured ladylike dresses.
And then, there's a very good possibility that the Princess has a friendship with a talented but unknown designer and may choose him, like when Caroline Bessette wore a dress by Narciso Rodriguez to marry America's version of a prince, John F. Kennedy Jr.
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