The Men's Style Guide To Patterned Suits
Modern men's fashion puts a great premium on the solid colored suit as a style staple in any male wardrobe
. But the world of suiting goes far beyond the simplicity of the solid suit. Printed suits take the style stakes one notch higher, setting you apart from a crowd of navy, grays and blacks. And when done in the right style and with appropriate pieces, the printed suit can be just as formal as it is distinctive.
Picking Prints
Everything starts with the choosing, and the print you pick for your suit is the decision that will make or break your look. Regardless of how exquisite the tailoring on the suit or how classic all your other pieces might be, the outcome will still be campy and messy if the print itself is not in order.
Some classic prints like herringbone tweeds and chalk stripes are good to go as is. In fact, they'll turn out even worse the more you fool around with the tried and tested formula. Stick to their usual classic colors and your outfit will be sure to turn out fine.
Other fabrics, however, aren't as lucky. Some are like houndstooth check that have some sort of link to a particular period in time, such as the Victorian era for the aforementioned check. Unless you intend to impersonate a certain pipe-smoking detective from the pages of Arthur Conan Doyle, you'll want to give these dated patterns a more modern twist. The same pattern in a much smaller size, think invisible from afar, should do the trick.
Yet others will also require a different sort of handling with regard to their color. A dark pattern on a similarly dark base color gives the suit a too-stern, almost unapproachable quality. Lighten up your look with shots of bold colors like light oranges on a Prince of Wales check or a bright brown color as a base for a glen plaid. The lighter shades also make it easier for you to pair lighter non-white style pieces with your suit.
Printed Style
Besides simply getting a good printed suit, the second half of the battle is assembling the look that you'll be rocking. Since printed suits are already quite imposing, as the fashion world calls it, by themselves, balance is the crucial element to make your outfit fly.
Keep away from shirts that have prints any larger than tiny stripes or a very, very fine micro check. Printed suits already give interest for your whole outfit, and throwing even more into the mix will have you simulating a tablecloth parade. Go for as solid a shirt and necktie as possible to balance the movement of the suit. It's also a good idea to opt for subtler, more muted colors so that your cool, distinctive suit can take center stage.
Neckties can have a little bit of print, such as a rep or regimental stripe tie that has just two colors to it. A better idea, though, is to go with a tie that doesn't rely on print to make it interesting. Knit and grenadine neckties, for example, are all about texture, and mixing them into your outfit won't have them competing for attention with the suit.
A word of warning: some patterns like houndstooth can appear too stern for fashion. To mitigate the strictures of the fabric, pick out lively accessories that break the monotony like a pocket square or necktie in a bright and happy color, or a sleek and shiny tie bar.
Granted, patterned suits are far from the safest fashion choices you could ever consider, and even professionals of men's fashion are wary about them. Yet despite the high risk of these style pieces, they possess an inimitable air of suaveness and cool. You could go as far to say that, for all their sartorial merits, patterned suits are worth every minute of the effort you give them.
by: Hendrik Pohl
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