Hey, Guys, It's Cool To Be A Gentleman
Washington remains a deeply conservative town regarding men's fashion no matter who the occupant of the zentai White House may be
. While this fact of life needn't preclude would-be dandies, peacocks and popinjays from expressing a bit of sartorial independence from time to time, the byword for self-expression is this: Save it for non-working hours. As far as weekend cruising of Georgetown hot spots or trendy Adams Morgan clubs is concerned, anything goes. Express yourself! Live! Be Free! But think twice - and then think again -where workaday wear is concerned. Does that expensive, double-breasted, pin-striped Jean-Paul Gaultier gangster suit with pronounced shoulders really look right for the legislative markup session with Sen. Jesse Helms' staff? Is the $100 surrealist Gianni Versache tie your girlfriend gave you for your birthday the thing to wear to the British ambassador's little soiree for the Knights of St. John? Obviously not, but then, that is only common sense. You can be appropriately attired no matter what you wear, just as long as you understand what is required for the occasion. Make no mistake, rules about appropriate dress for work in the nation's capital have relaxed since the days when crusty congressmen wore wing collars and frock coats. Though there is less leeway in accepted norms here than in, say, the more creative arts and advertising worlds of New York or the laid-back entertainment industry scene in L.A., a dark suit is still the norm in most office situations. Even the most expensive suit in the world won't look like much if it doesn't fit. You don't have to pay a custom tailor $2,000
catsuits or more to look well. Passable tailoring is achievable even if you buy off the rack and have alterations done at a men's shop or department store. It pays, however, to insist on the fulfillment of your personal requirements, even if you have to go back three or more times to obtain satisfaction. If all else fails, go to a recommended tailor and have him do the work instead of the in-house option. A few pointers: * Suits, jackets and shirts. Fashion and figure will dictate whether the suit consists of two or three pieces or is single or double-breasted. (A double-breasted garment is more flattering to larger and taller men.) In general, jackets should be long enough to cover the seat of trousers and should hang evenly. Jacket sleeves should reach the base of the hand when arms are straight, with shirt cuffs showing about a half-inch below the sleeves. About a half-inch of shirt collar should be visible around the back of the neck. About those zentai to go with the French-cuff shirts: Nothing too big or gaudy, please. We don't want to look like Dean Martin in Las Vegas, do we? Avoid wearing big Rolex-type wristwatches with zentai. If you don't have a slim little timepiece to fit neatly under the cuff, consider buying a pocket watch. * Vests should be worn with suspenders, or braces, never a belt. The lowest button is usually left undone in tribute to King Edward VIII,
costume spiderman whose habit of 10-course meals left no comfortable alternative. * Pockets. No pens, however valuable or beautiful, should be seen in the top outside pocket of a suit. They go, along with the wallet, in the inside jacket pocket. * Ties may indeed be "one of the few ways in which men can express themselves" sartorially, but things seem to have gotten a bit out of hand in recent years with the myriad of mostly hideous prints on offer in even the best shops. If you want to express creativity by looking like a clown from Ringling Bros., consider a circus career instead of one on Capitol Hill or with a K Street lobbying firm.
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