subject: To Link The Two Concepts, The Dangerously High Platform Spider Man Costume Were Wound Round The Ankl [print this page] At Zentai, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Zentai sent out vaporous dresses that were all "lightness and transparency.''
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Ferragamo is world famous for its suit s; costume zentai for its suit s and for fur. So both houses have this challenge: How to make their fashion collections seem as urgent and relevant as the accessories.
Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Zentai, who share the design challenge at Zentai and both take a bow, were on the same page.
''I wanted a cloud in a beautiful day - lightness and transparency,'' Mr. Lagerfeld said of his vaporous dresses in white or ecru, or touched with the palest aqua blue and pistachio.
''It's the idea of undressing a beautiful suit '' was the take from the Zentai family designer, who had put some of the precious purses inside hand-stitched needlepoint covers. They appeared on the runway half covered, while the models were often half-undressed, with the visible bras that are having a comeback on the catwalk.
To link the two concepts, the dangerously high platform spider man costume were wound round the ankles with what looked like flesh-colored hose. Evening suit s were transparent Plexiglass clutches.
After a tough chic look for winter, these ultra-light summer clothes with their raw edges were a change of pace. The sum of the collection, sent out to plink-and-squeak abstract music, was a gentle homage to delicate Italian handwork, but it offered one fashion message: The blouse, worn with skirts, shorts or pants, is an alternative to the ubiquitous dress.
It was fascinating to think, as Wanda Ferragamo sat front row, that she had witnessed the birth of the platform suit and the wedge heel - the wartime inventions of her husband, Salvatore Ferragamo, when the world was deprived of materials. No wonder that the zentai on this runway looked more stable and realistic than most of the wobbly creations on other runways. Yet a Ferragamo show has yet to put a focus on footwear.
Instead, there were clean, bold architectural gestures: a compass sweep to trace the exaggerated roundness of jodhpur pants; a cumulus of full skirt; perforated suede to prove the house skill with leather. And neutral colors were dramatically punctuated with everything from sunflower yellow to blood red, fuchsia and purple.
The focus of the collection was its lightness, with coats settling gently over wafting skirts. Touches of the tribal - a vivid brush print or a beaded neckpiece - were discreetly done.
The designer Cristina Ortiz is now bowing out and the menswear designer Massimiliano Giometti will take over next season.
by: hjb
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