subject: Kerala Houseboat holidays - an experience of intense tranquillity – under threat [print this page] Kerala Houseboat holidays - an experience of intense tranquillity under threat
When I first visited Kerala in 2003 the kettuvallams' [converted rice barge houseboats] numbered around 50, now after ten visits, I estimate that there are over 700 crowding the shores of Lake Vembanad near Alappuzha (Alleppey) and clogging the narrow rivers and canals of the famous backwaters', and of course they are no longer converted rice barges but freshly built floating hotel rooms, some with two decks, some with TV, some with a Jacuzzi.
Traditionally a kettuvallam would be constructed without the use of nails and the anjili wood planks would be stitched together with coir rope and a thick covering of cashew nut oil would bind everything together and make it watertight. Nowadays quicker, cheaper techniques are employed and the rustic charm of the kettuvallam is giving way to bigger, faster, more profitable boats.
The Kerala backwaters, lying parallel to the Malabar Coast, are a long string of lakes and lagoons, linked by 1500km of canals and rivers. To spend a day or two slowly drifting through this unique waterworld is an experience of such intense tranquillity that many visitors to Kerala count it the high point of their holiday.
Typically you would board your houseboat from a jetty in Alleppey or Kumarakom and your crew of three would help you appreciate the backwaters environment and society and also prepare wonderfully tasty meals of fish and prawns lightly spiced with curry and coconut.
It is a truly delightful experience but it is under threat. The backwaters are a fragile eco-system that cannot tolerate over-development. The numbers of houseboats rises year on year as does the number of lakeside hotels. Holidaymakers are attracted to Kerala's superb tropical climate and laid-back lifestyle. It is still there to be enjoyed, but get it while you can. It will not last much longer.
Graham Ellison Roberts
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