This produces an extra facet.Other Popular shapesUnlike round ER054 - Tiffany 1837 round earrings, "fancy" shapes, all shapes other than round, have no set formulas, so evaluating the make of a fancy is more subjective. It's actually a piece of the natural surface of the diamond crystal. In cutting, a cutter may decide to leave part of the "natural" rough surface in order to get as large a diamond as possible from the rough stone. If this natural is no thicker than the thickness of the girdle and does not distort the circumference of the stone, most dealers consider it a minor defect at worst; it it extends into the crown or pavilion of the stone, it is a more serious fault.Sometimes, if the natural is somewhat large but slightly below the girdle, it will be polished off.
Table and depth percentage can vary widely among individual stones of the same shape, each producing a beautiful stone. Personal taste also varies with regard to what constitutes the "ideal" for shapes other than round. Nonetheless, there are certain visual indicators of good or poor proportioning, such as the "bow tie" effect, which even the amateur can learn to spot.
There are recommended ratios for overall shape and symmetry, but a preferred shape is largely a personal matter. Ranges for what is "acceptable" or "unacceptable" have been developed. As you gain experience looking at specific shapes, you will be able to spot faults, and begin to determine what is within an "acceptable" range. Moderate deviation will not significantly affect the beauty or value of a stone; however, extreme deviations can seriously reduce a stone's beauty and value.Cutting faults in popular fancy shapesOne of the most obvious indicators of poor proportioning in fancy shapes is the bow tie, or butterfly effect, a darkened area across the center or widest part of the stone, depending upon the cut.
The bow tie is most commonly seen in the pear shape or marquise shape but may exist in any fancy shape ER055 - Tiffany 1837 square earrings. Virtually all fancy shapes cut today will exhibit some minimal bow tie effect. Nonetheless, the presence or absence of a bow tie is an indicator of proper proportioning. In poorly proportional stones there is a pronounced bow tie; the more pronounced, the poorer the proportioning. The less pronounced the bow tie, the better the proportioning. The degree to which the bow tie is evident is the first indicator of a good or poor make.
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